Thursday, 17 July 2014

Halland's Väderö & Bjäre peninsula



HALLAND'S VÄDERÖ & BJÄRE PENINSULA



A Maritime Museum in Torekov, Bjäre Peninsula.




Bjäre Peninsula is in the northwestern corner of Skåne - rich in both potatoes and natural beauty. Seventyfive percent of the seasonal fresh potato is said to come from this area but this was not the reason for our excursion to the area. Our friend Inger advised us earlier to visit the small island of Halland's Väderö and one must drive through Bjäre to get to the village of Torekov where you catch the ferry to the island. Despite its name, the island belongs to Skåne and not Halland. The area of Bjäre attracts 1,2 million tourists annually and it offers something for everyone; adventure and activity as well as natural beauty and a restful environment depending on your preference. The ridge of Halland stretches into Bjäre and forms a colorful elevation with many Nature Reserves. The City of Båstad is beautifully located on the coast and stretches up towards the ridge. 

Time was really scarce for this trip but I allowed for two stops; one at Norrviken Gardens and the other at Hov's Hallar. There was also some time to photograph Torekov. 



Norrviken's Gardens


Entrance to Norrviken (botanical) Gardens.

To reach Bjäre Peninsula from Hässleholm take route 24 to Våxtorp and 115 from there to Båstad. I then choose to follow the coastal route to Kattvik where large signs about Norrviken's Gardens tempted me to stop for a quick familiarization. The garden was very well kept, but I am afraid more of my short visit this time was used up by an exhibition of British veteran cars in front of the main building. In addition to its themed gardens like the Barock and Water Gardens they organize special events like veteran cars,  talk shows and concerts during the summer season. Check their website, would you. 


Hardware amongst the natural beauty of Norrviken's Gardens.


Hov's Hallar

From the Gardens I had to rush to Hov's Hallar, the famous place where the rocks meet the sea. I had done a bit of homework before my departure but the beautiful scenery nevertheless took me by complete surprise. This dramatic landscape with its rock formations have inspired film directors like Ingemar Bergman and Jan Troell. My plan was to walk, as is recommended, along the shore to find the caves and picture the rocks upwards, but there was not enough time which was upsetting. The problem was I needed to be on time in Torekov to reach the ferry at 13.00 hours. 


View looking at an easterly direction....

....and a westerly direction. Busy yachting out on the sea that day.


Torekov


Torekov - a very busy village this time of the year.


Torekov for me was the departure point of the ferry Nanny that was going to take me and other visitors to the island of Halland's Väderö. But I learned that Torekov also has a lot to offer; fishing, golfing, hiking, art & culture, excellent dining, shopping and cycling. It also has an interesting maritime museum and can attract with its passed history, too. Some 300 years ago a Danish pirate used to "pay visits" to this area. Visit www.torekov.se  to learn more.


Halland's Väderö


What can be so exciting for the children if not Crab-finding.


Halland's Väderö (or simply Väderö) is a small island out in the Kattegat waters. Due to its unique nature and cultural values it has been declared a Nature Reserve and a Natura 2000-EU area. Indeed this island has such a variety of natural areas; both sandy and pebbled beaches, woodlands, wetlands or small swamps, meadows, fields with tight (juniper) bushes and rock fields. This allows a variety of animal species to thrive. I spotted a a viper which I first took for a large lizard, a common crane and I tried to see some of the seals living on the small islets nearby, but never saw any. What I DID SEE was domestic animals, especially the LARGE BULLS in the open fields near the lighthouse. I had my FERRARI RED shirt on me and decided not to take it off or make ANY OTHER MATADOR-LIKE GESTURES that might upset the bulls  ;)  Anyway, they seemed more interested in the cows so I let them go by their "duties" and continued towards the lighthouse (to add on to my lighthouse picture collection). On the return trip I followed the advice of some youngsters as to the right way for seal-spotting. I followed the blue-marked trail. Around the corner ........  walked ANOTHER COW. She was moving in the same direction, but not on a seal-spotting mission, I presume. She was a bit slow so I made some oral sounds that made her move faster.....more oral sounds and we where doing really well.....UNTIL WE HIT WOODEN PLANKS ON THE PATH that the cow did not want to walk on. FULLSTOP AND WHAT NOW????? Well, I decided to take a step to the left and climb on some stones. She noticed that and politely took a right side step, made a 180 degree swing while I moved sideways to pass her. It all looked like an old fashioned square dance that made us swirl around. As a result the cow ended up returning the same way she came and I could continue on my seal-spotting mission. We separated as good friends in complete mutual understanding that cows do not walk on wooden planks.  



One of the rocky beaches on the island.


The ferrie NANNY transports people back and forth to the island.

Above, different sections of the island that is a paradise for sunbathers and hikers. The average temperature on the island is said to be higher than in the mainland. If you do not bring your own picnic basket the café will provide with drinks and sandwiches. Top, right-hand side picnickers have a view across to mainland Skåne with Hov's Hallar not far away. 



The lighthouse is 13 meters high. How tall is then the flagpole?   "OpenSkies" offer no limit.


Some readers may not be familiar with my term "OpenSkies". I introduced this in Skåne because the region has an open sky while the skies in Andalucia tends to be "filled with mountains". Photographically this offers interesting opportunities. I have started an "OpenSkies" series on my homepage www.thomastapio.com  

But the island is not entirely OPEN. There are also forrest sections with oak and beech. Alder, nevertheless, is most common. Interestingly, being administered by the church, the forests have not been fell for 800 years (www.hallandsvadero.se). In addition very strong autumn winds have knocked down large trees many of which have been left in the woods as they are. All this adds to a magical feeling when you walk in these forests. All in all, having lived in southwestern part of Finland with a large archipelago I have never experienced such an island before - nowhere in the world. 


Lighter section of the forrest.

The forests can be rather dense allowing for a limited amount of light.


This is Halland's Väderö




And this is the beginning of the end of today's blog post. I only want to point out that Mrs. T has been with me all the time - electronically via our APP "What's Up". She received a number of pictures during my journey. In the end her message was "Let's move there". Some readers may remember that one of her hobbies is "house watching" which has led to the fact that we tend to move every third year (my version). Now she knows of vipers and narrow, stony pathways with cow dung so I am not so sure anymore......but I know that she is full of surprises. Hope you have enjoyed today's trip and do not be surprised if we come back with more images from Hov's Hallar.


Across the water for mainland Skåne, Torekov and Östra Göinge. The speed limit on route 24 is 80 km's per hour!


The Baltic Herring Market in Skanör - Sunday Next.


:-)





Thursday, 10 July 2014

Ystad - Skanör Coastal Line



'THE SOUTHERN SKÅNE COASTLINE


Crops on a windy day in Österlen along route 19.


Trailing Route 9 From Ystad to Skanör


In the previous post I called it a day in Kåseberga visiting the amazing Ale's Stones. It therefore seems logical to move further west from there and get a touch of the nature and holiday resorts / beaches in southern Skåne. Route 19 from Kristianstad to Ystad is getting familiar by now. This time I made only one stop at the Kronovall Castle in Fågeltofta before reaching the southern coast. Next stop was just west of Ystad, then at Abbekås, at Hörte, at Beddingestrand and a longer stop at Smygehuk. Due to time restraint no stopping at Trelleborg. Better to use up what time is left for now in Skanör - Falsterbo, the end destination for today.






KRONOVALL´S CASTLE

The only wine castle in Sweden - Barock style.


Given the opportunity we want to visit some of the many castles in Skåne. Kronovall´s Castle is still partly in private use, but like so many other castles and manors it is open for the public with daily tours. Åkessons family today runs a hotel, restaurant and conference business in the premises. Eight meters below, in the cellars, they stock tens-of-thousands of sparkling wine. Visitors are welcome to taste the wines. Programs are also organized in the park - July 11 a concert is organized for the homage of Ted Gärdestad.  



WEST OF YSTAD; Abbekås and Hörte 


As Mrs. T and I want to visit Ystad on an other occasion I circumvented the city moving towards the west and stopped by the first beaches for a few shots and an enriching discussion with a gentleman. The topic was world politics especially the situation in Eastern Europe and the Middle East. We also touched the migration policy in the Nordic countries which was of particular interest as Mrs. T is now involved with such things. This takes good organization and Mrs. T is notorious for that.


Western Ystad beaches, Abbekås summer coffée shop and the small harbour in Hörte.


BEDDINGESTRAND


Families and parakitors occupied the beach.


Like other villages along the coast also Beddingestrand made its livelihood from the sea. In 1874 it was almost completely destroyed by a storm. Today it is an important holiday resort and attract large crowds. They also have a sizable caravan area. As so many times before I again noticed how getting around for handicapped people is so well organized in Sweden, including Beddingestrand caravan area and also at the next stop at Smygehuk.  



SMYGEHUK


Smygehuk - the southernmost tip of Sweden.


Partly due to its geographical position Smygehuk attracts large crowds of people with some 200.000 visiting the place every year. Skåne is a natural beauty in itself and the contrast with the sea only adds to it. Smygehuk is very active with a tourist office, a youth hostel, an art exhibition, an old lighthouse,  a shop, a restaurant for smoked fish and of course the southernmost TIP itself where you can chill out on a hot summer day - see pictures below. 

1. Tempted by the forceful sea,
2. Protection provided - to be on the safe side,
3. It's over in an instant,
4. Have to tell all the friends!


This was indeed a very hot day, but I was advised that the sea is not particularly warm.



SKANÖR & FALSTERBO


If you look at the map of Skåne you will notice that these villages are on a peninsula and are likely to offer a spectacular scenery - AND THEY DO. Ten Nature Reserves and the mile-long white beaches and lowlands make part of it. Golf and birdwatching is highly popular. On a good day about 1,5 million birds migrate over the region (cityguide.se). The beaches with with their clear water are magnificent and suitable also for windsurfing and other sports activities. Falsterbo Horse Show is a well-known annual event throughout Europe but also Vikings visit Fotevikens Viking Reserve during the high season. Due to its historic past dealing with Atlantic herrings an annual herring festival is organized towards the end of summer. 


Skanör overlooking the bridge of Öresund.


The view towards the Öresund bridge is breathtaking and I stopped briefly before arriving at Skanör to get this windsurfer in the foreground.  



Shallow waters make a perfect practicing field for this windsurfer. 


A promise is a promise and I wanted to head back home on time. The picture ending this blog, below,   shows the beach guards contemplating. Mrs T - I was young and fit once, was I? Now I am only fit ;-)



High Season in Skanör.



HOPE YOU HAVE ENJOYED TODAY'S TOUR - Remember that Skåne is only a short drive from Copenhagen airport. 



:-)



Friday, 4 July 2014

A zappy market in Hörby




HÖRBY TRADITIONAL AND ZAPPY MARKET


Since 1784


Hörby market has ancient traditions. It was organized for the first time in 1748 and is today a festive two day event that is not without an international tone. The tourist authority from Höör did mention that some markets tend to dwindle away slowly but that this one in Hörby continuously attract the crowds of 100.000 visitors. The market is organized in the city center next to the church that organizes organ concerts during the market days. A fantastic idea that adds to the versatile program. A large field nearby forms the parking lot where also the photographer found his way - eventually.



HÖRBY MUNICIPALITY


Hörby - middle of Skåne. Below colorful eastern style decoration represent the international offering.


Due to its geographical location Hörby can be reached easily from anywhere in Skåne. The town has some 15.000 inhabitants and Fulltofta National Park, with its varied hiking routes, is nearby. See our previous post in this blog. The oldest building in the town is the old, dutch type, wind mill that since mid 19th century has developed into a restaurant. Another annual event is a Cultural Junket with  music, dance and theatre performances at the end of May.



ALL THE ZAPPY THINGS


Linnéa was very busy on the market days.


In connection with the market there is also a running contest, small animals market and a flee market to mention some concepts. When I for the first time saw the above pictures small mobile "coffée shop" I was excited because everything tries to be mobile nowadays so why not a coffée shop, too. Linnéa said she needs a permit wherever she wants to go but the point is she can go where the crowds are!!! I never asked about rainy days but let's find an excuse in my optimistic nature. I was great looking at Linnéa being so busy with people cueing up for their coffées. Obviously she likes the idea of working differently.



Foreign flavor at supply.

The market concept also has an international flavor into it. Bo-Göran indeed is Swedish but has close ties with Texas where he has recorded some of his music. He learned playing the guitar as a youngster when he responded to an advertisement offering guitar lectures. He paid SEK 25 and got an appreciative answer from the "teacher" thanking for the money and asking him to start learning the guitar. I have now bought my first of his albums. Its called "Amerikanska Irrfärder".

The visitors from Equador where also very skilled with their instruments so I did want to support them, too. Another interesting concept is the Lone Star that organizes festive events in a true western style - YES, in Skåne. Near Höör! Conferencing also but who can wait to take part in the CowboyCombat, BullRiding or a course in Linedance? Tired? Then book one of their cottages - I would, too. Every Saturday they organize a Country Festivity for the whole family. Mrs. T? 

Other international flavors: How about large and juicy cherries from Turkey or Spanish Churros (donut like). Having spent the months in Spain I did try out a churro which is something all Spaniards eat for breakfast (I was told). They come in different toppings but the chocolate is traditional. I asked it the man selling churros was from Sweden or Spain. Quess what the answer was......? GREECE. It's a really small world nowadays. A Greek selling Spanish Churros in Skåne. YESSSS.

If you wonder what the gentleman in yellow shirt is doing he wanted to introduce a political party called Medborgarpartiet. We had a nice conversation and he ended up approving the picture. I also encountered the Swedish Labour Party briefly. Did you think that that's all? No, this was the beginning but a break for coffee or a Western(chili)Burger is now recommended.



Getting ready for the market commotion.


WHAT CAN YOU BUY ON A MARKET?


Fishing gear, donuts, jewelry and hammocks.

We exchanged some thoughts about the fishing rods with the older gentleman: Me: "Wonder if these are Swedish manufacture?" He: "Vem fasingen vet" which means something like !"Who knows, they all come from China anyway". Fishing is an important hobby here and Spinn Sport in Kristianstad an important supplier. Mrs. T would have liked the yellow cloudberries because she fancies a "jammy" British sandwich in the morning. She would have also liked many other things like jewelry, the hammock, leather wallets.........Besides the CD record from Bo-Göran I purchased black waste bags for the garden. I remembered that they where almost exhausted. Like me at that point.



Flowers, brushes, shoes, clothing, cashew nuts and warm sugar coated almonds (big favorite from Spain)  and flee market goodies.


It is important to find ways in making yourself stand out. Advertising is one way. The yellow sign says STOP SMOKING. START HERE!! Who ever wrote it DID find the right place for the exclamation mark. Otherwise it might have been difficult to know whether to stop or start (smoking).



WHAT IS MORE ZAPPY THAN THIS?


I remember doing this, too.

It is great seeing the kids cheering, laughing and shouting. The second picture from the bottom shows a particularly noisy machine. My stomach told me to take the picture and move on.

It was getting late. I had some driving to do and also needed to pick up some fresh flowers for our living room. I also stopped by at a furnace supplier, but he was not in so I made my appointment with Mrs. T on time. The final picture below is seeing other visitors leaving the busy market. Hope you have enjoyed the Hörby Market. Want to come next year?



Ready with the market and time to catch the bus home.


HAVE A GREAT SUMMER WEEK-END ALL. 



:-)







Wednesday, 2 July 2014

Early Sun over Helge Å



A resting place by route 19 with the perfect morning feeling .


This morning I drove Mrs T. to her job north on route 19. We keep an eye on river Helge for mornings like this one - today was the morning. On the way back I had a few stops taking the opportunity to capture the calm and sunny river bends and would like to share it with our readers without using too many words. 



Helge Å direction south.


For our foreign readers short information about Helge Å. It runs up in Småland and ends up in the sea 20 miles away having passed Kristianstad. In Kristianstads area the water level increases creating a wetland that has become Kristianstads Vattenrike Biosphere Reserve with a rich birdlife and recreative opportunities for the whole family.



Looking the northern way.



Different kind of water lilies are appearing.



The sunny western riverbank. 


The sun open up shadows on the river banks.


HAVE A GREAT RELAXING DAY EVERYONE!


:-)



Tuesday, 1 July 2014

Hitting Eastern Sands



A promenade in Kristianstad - Vattenriket Näsby Fält (Field).


We have taken a day to explore Skåne's eastern shoreline starting from Brösarps Backar and moving down towards Sandhammar and Ales Stenar in Kåseberga in southernmost parts of the region. Along the route we admired the  natural beauty of Havängen and the rather exotic small coastal villages of Brantevik and Skillinge. Obviously one day is not nearly enough for an in-depth review but we hope that the pictures will talk for themselves. For Stenshuvuds National Park see the earlier post.



BRÖSARPS BACKAR

Beautiful promenades in the hills of Brösarps Backar.

Brösarps Backar is regarded as the gateway to the shiny Österlen region and also a part of one of the largest natural reserves of Sweden (Verkeån). It dates back to the ice ages and has a sandy soil. It is well known for its flora and is kept open by grazing. An old steam engine runs to St- Olof and the apple district is "around the corner". The northern hills are by route 9 and very easily accessible. Also Havängen, our next stop, is on the other side of the road so this region alone offer plenty to do for a day's visit. 



HAVÄNGEN

Havängen with its long white beaches and blooming fields.


Havängen is a well known recreational area but its fantastic landscape nevertheless took us by surprise. The short drive from route 9 to the beaches passes a wine yard and traditional habitation. The beach welcome picnickers and sunbathers for a swim and the hostel provide for accommodation. Interestingly, some two kilometers out in the sea bottom 10000 years old pine remnants have been found and a 5500 years old grave nearby, dated to the stone ages, can also be visited (Wikipedia).



SIMRIS

A meadow by the beach at Simris.

From Simrishamn a smaller route will take you south along the coast with miles of white beaches, and beautiful small villages with a continental atmosphere. A small village, Simris, just after Simrishamn offer the above scenery and a parking space where to stop for a walk for photographing. Skåne is an agricultural region and domestic animals stay outside for the long summer. Having entered the meadow over a walkway I ran into some cows. Not expecting them on the beach these rather big animals startled the photographer but we quickly reached an understanding on my, then acceptable, trespassing.


BRANTEVIK & SKILLINGE

Brantevik, a summer paradise offering B&B facilities.

Brantevik is a small village with some 400 inhabitants with picturesque houses and B&B facilities. It has evolved from a fishing and farming community into a popular tourist resort. Frans Löfström describes Brantevik as the largest seafaring community in Sweden with its 226 registered ships at the end of 19th century. During these times shipping companies where mushrooming in this area. Also Skillinge, the neighbor village, was big in this business and the entire coastal region possessed an impressive 700 ships. The villa also claims to possess the longest liars bench in Sweden, picture above. In July all jazz enthusiasts are offered an impressive program me with Tommy Körberg, Lill Lindfors and others. Sounds great!


"Corporate main office" at Branteviken.

SKILLINGE, the neighboring village has a slightly larger population and is also a popular summer village with its large guest harbour. Tourism and fishing are the key sources of livelihood. The village has an active business climate with over 100 companies that collaborate closely with local interest groups in order to get their voice heard up in the "national hierarchy" (www.skillinge.com). Anyone in for berries? Skillinge organizes a Goosberry Festival in the beginning of August. Other food enthusiast will find Provence-like restaurants. To me, these two villages carry a slight atmosphere of a leisurely labelled French countryside at its best.


SANDHAMMAREN

Sandhammaren Lighthouse watch over the south-eastern waters in Skåne.


Sandhammaren is one of the most important sand-dune areas in Sweden and the white beaches are said to be one of the nicest. They are continuously shaped by waves and streams. In early 19th century the shallow waters made vessels go down before a provisory lighthouse was built. The present lighthouse was finished by 1862 and was the first of the so called Heidenstam lighthouses - light enough to be built on soft grounds. The above picture really nicely fills up my series of different lighthouses in Europe.



BACKAÅKRA in KÅSEBERGA


Dag Hammarskjölds summer residence.


The former UN Secretary-General Dag Hammarskjöld purchased the Backaåkra estate in 1957 in order to preserve this moor landscape overlooking the Baltic Sea. After his death in 1961 the Swedish Tourist authority has been looking after the museum containing memories of Mr. Hammarskjölds life and achievements. At this moment the museum itself is closed but the surroundings are stunning and the statue of Mr. Hammarskjöld is at display in the garden. Very much worth a visit.



KÅSEBERGA - Ale's Stones


A fantastic scenery at Kåseberga.


The program for this day is coming to a close with the visit to Kåseberga Ale's Stenar (Stones). This is a megalithic monument probably created during the iron age. It is in the form of a stone ship containing 59 heavy boulders (Wikipedia). Bob G. Lind has written about the origins of Ale's Stones and it seems there is no clear understanding of the reason for its construction. But the fact remains that it is designed with skill on an ideal place for astronomical observations using ancient know-how. For more information see www.alesstenar.info


This has been a most rewarding and educational day out in the field; learning to know Haväng, Brantevik & Skillinge, Sandhammaren, Backåkra and Ale's Stones. Besides being on a beautiful spot the Ale's Stones inspires to read more about the background and know-how that existed already in ancient times. 


THE FINAL PICTURE IS TAKEN IN KÅSEBERGA WHERE WILD POPPIES GROW LITERALLY ENHANCING THE COLORFUL IMAGE OF SKÅNE.



Kåseberga Poppies


Hope you have enjoyed todays ride. Have a great day and take care!


:-)